Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy

A Feast of 175 Regional Recipes: A Cookbook

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Best Seller
From the Emmy award-winning chef and bestselling author, a collection of wonderful, uncomplicated recipes from little-known parts of Italy, celebrating time-honored techniques and elemental, good family cooking.

Penetrating the heart of Italy—starting at the north, working down to the tip, and ending in Sardinia—Lidia unearths a wealth of recipes:

• From Trentino–Alto Adige: Delicious Dumplings with Speck (cured pork); apples accenting soup, pasta, salsa, and salad; local beer used to roast a chicken and to braise beef
• From Lombardy: A world of rice—baked in a frittata, with lentils, with butternut squash, with gorgonzola, and the special treat of Risotto Milan-Style with Marrow and Saffron
• From Valle d’Aosta: Polenta with Black Beans and Kale, and local fontina featured in fondue, in a roasted pepper salad, and embedded in veal chops
• From Liguria: An array of Stuffed Vegetables, a bread salad, and elegant Veal Stuffed with a Mosaic of Vegetables
• From Emilia-Romagna: An olive oil dough for making the traditional, versatile vegetable tart erbazzone, as well as the secrets of making tagliatelle and other pasta doughs, and an irresistible Veal Scaloppine Bolognese
• From Le Marche: Farro with Roasted Pepper Sauce, Lamb Chunks with Olives, and Stuffed Quail in Parchment
• From Umbria: A taste of the sweet Norcino black truffle, and seductive dishes such as Potato-Mushroom Cake with Braised Lentils, Sausages in the Skillet with Grapes, and Chocolate Bread Parfait
• From Abruzzo: Fresh scrippelle (crêpe) ribbons baked with spinach or garnishing a soup, fresh pasta made with a “guitar,” Rabbit with Onions, and Lamb Chops with Olives
• From Molise: Fried Ricotta; homemade cavatelli pasta in a variety of ways; Spaghetti with Calamari, Shrimp, and Scallops; and Braised Octopus
• From Basilicata: Wedding Soup, Fiery Maccheroni, and Farro with Pork Ragù
• From Calabria: Shepherd’s Rigatoni, steamed swordfish, and Almond Biscottini
• From Sardinia: Flatbread Lasagna, two lovely eggplant dishes, and Roast Lobster with Bread Crumb Topping

This is just a sampling of the many delights Lidia has uncovered. The 175 recipes she shares with us in this rich feast of a book represent the work of the local people and friends with whom she made intimate contact—the farmers, shepherds, foragers, and artisans who produce local cheeses, meats, olive oils, and wines. And in addition, her daughter, Tanya, takes us on side trips in each of the twelve regions to share her love of the country and its art.
Frittata with Asparagus and Scallions

 

Ingredients:

 

1 pound fresh, thin asparagus spears

 

4 ounces prosciutto or bacon, thick slices with ample fat (about 4 slices)

 

1/2 pound scallions

 

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

 

1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt, or more to taste

 

8 large eggs

 

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

 

Recommended Equipment:

 

A sturdy 12-inch nonstick skillet with a cover

 

A heat-proof rubber spatula

 

Serves 4 as a light meal or 6 as an appetizer

 

This is a different sort of frittata, not the neat golden round of well-set eggs that's probably most familiar. Here the eggs are in the skillet for barely a minute, just long enough to gather in soft, loose folds, filled with morsels of asparagus and shreds of prosciutto. In fact, when I make this frittata or the "dragged" eggsuova strapazzate, page 143I leave my eggs still wet and glistening so I can mop up the plate with a crust of country bread. That's the best part of all.

 

Snap off the tough bottom stubs of the asparagus, peel the bottom few inches of each spear, and cut them crosswise in 1 1/2-inch pieces. Slice prosciutto or bacon into strips, or lardoons, about 1 inch long and 1/3 inch wide. Trim the scallions, and cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces.

 

Pour the olive oil into the skillet, scatter in the lardoons, and set over medium heat. When the strips are sizzling and rendering fat, toss in the cut asparagus, and roll and toss them over a few times. Cover the skillet, and cook, still over moderate heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until the asparagus is slightly softened, 5 minutes or so.

 

Scatter the scallion pieces in the pan, season with a couple pinches of salt, and toss the vegetables and lardoons together. Cover the skillet, and cook, shaking the pan and stirring occasionally, until the scallions and asparagus are soft and moist, 7 or 8 minutes more. Meanwhile, beat the eggs thoroughly with the remaining salt and generous grinds of black pepper.

 

When the vegetables are steaming in their moisture, uncover the skillet, raise the heat, and cook, tossing, for a minute or so, until the water has evaporated and the asparagus and scallions seem about to color.

 

Quickly spread them out in the pan, and pour the eggs over at once. Immediately begin folding the eggs over with the spatula, clearing the sides and skillet bottom continuously, so the eggs flow and coagulate around the vegetables and lardoons.

 

When all the eggs are cooked in big soft curds—in barely a minute—take the skillet off the heat. Tumble the frittata over a few more times to keep it loose and moist. Spoon portions onto warm plates, and serve hot and steaming.

 

Dry Fettuccine with Squash and Cauliflower
Bavette con Zucca e Cavolo
Serves 6

Ingredients
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 plump garlic cloves, crushed and peeled
1 small onion, thinly sliced (1 cup)
3 cups butternut squash cut in ½-inch cubes
3 cups cauliflower cut in small (about 1-inch) florets
4 tablespoons small capers, drained
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt, or to taste, plus more for cooking pasta
1/2 teaspoon peperoncino flakes, or to taste
2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand
1 pound dry fettucine or bavette
1 cup freshly grated pecorino

Recommended Equipment
A heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan, 14-inch diameter, with a cover
A large pot, 8-quart capacity or larger, with a cover, for cooking the pasta

 
Dry Fettuccine with Squash and Cauliflower
Bavette con Zucca e Cavolo
 


   1. Pour the olive oil into the big skillet, and set over medium-high heat.

   2. Scatter in the sliced garlic, and let it start sizzling.

   3. Stir in the onion slices, and cook for a couple of minutes, to wilt.

   4. Spill in all the cut squash and cauliflower pieces, scatter the capers, salt, and peperoncino on top, and with tongs toss all together for a minute or so.

   5. Pour a cup of water into the skillet, cover tightly, and steam the vegetables for 2 to 3 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally.

   6. Pour in the crushed tomatoes along with a cup of water sloshed in the tomato cans. Stir well and cover; when the tomato juices are boiling, adjust the heat to keep them bubbling gently. Cook covered for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

   7. When the vegetables are softened, uncover and continue cooking to reduce the pan juices to a good consistency for dressing the pasta, about 5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning to taste, and keep at a low simmer.

   8. While the sauce is cooking, heat salted pasta-cooking water to a rolling boil (at least 6 quarts water and a tablespoon salt).

   9. Drop in the fettuccine or bavette, and cook until barely al dente.

   10. Lift them from the water, drain for a moment, then drop into the simmering vegetables. Toss and cook all together for a couple of minutes over moderate heat. Moisten the dish with pasta water if it seems dry; cook rapidly to reduce the juices if they're splashing in the skillet.

   11. When the pasta is perfectly cooked and robed with sauce, turn off the heat. Sprinkle over it the grated cheese, toss into the pasta, and serve.


 
Praise for Lidia Matticchio Bastianich

"Straightforward, honest, simple but sophisticated, and utterly delicious...these satisfying dishes will never fail to please your family or your friends." —Jacques Pépin 
 
"I have enjoyed the creative and soulful cooking at Felidia for more than three decades. Lidia was the first to really bring us authentic regional Italian food in New York. Her recipes in this book are rustic, delicious, and perfect for the home cook." —Daniel Boulud 
 
"For those who want to craft the kind of delizioso Italian delights one finds at the chef’s flagship New York restaurant, Felidia, [Lidia] Bastianich serves up more than 100 signature recipes she’s spent 38 years perfecting: Istrian-inflected dishes both sophisticated and homespun." —O, The Oprah Magazine 
 
"No one gets to the heart of Italian food like Lidia Bastianich." —Debbie Macomber,#1 New York Times best-selling author 

"One of America’s great Italian cooks." —Los Angeles Times

"Bastianich’s 16th cookbook and arguably one of her most user-friendly, streamlined to be 'as straightforward to cook as possible' and using a minimal number of pots and pans. . . . You’ll find a wide assortment of primi pasta and risotto cishes, which are the cornerstone of Italian cooking and perfectly suited for one-pot cooking: chicken eggplant parmesan, gemelli with pesto and tomato, chicken cacciatore and zucchini bread lasagna, to name a few. . . . Ever the teacher, Bastianich sprinkles tips and tricks throughout, and also offers substitution and serving suggestions." Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

About

From the Emmy award-winning chef and bestselling author, a collection of wonderful, uncomplicated recipes from little-known parts of Italy, celebrating time-honored techniques and elemental, good family cooking.

Penetrating the heart of Italy—starting at the north, working down to the tip, and ending in Sardinia—Lidia unearths a wealth of recipes:

• From Trentino–Alto Adige: Delicious Dumplings with Speck (cured pork); apples accenting soup, pasta, salsa, and salad; local beer used to roast a chicken and to braise beef
• From Lombardy: A world of rice—baked in a frittata, with lentils, with butternut squash, with gorgonzola, and the special treat of Risotto Milan-Style with Marrow and Saffron
• From Valle d’Aosta: Polenta with Black Beans and Kale, and local fontina featured in fondue, in a roasted pepper salad, and embedded in veal chops
• From Liguria: An array of Stuffed Vegetables, a bread salad, and elegant Veal Stuffed with a Mosaic of Vegetables
• From Emilia-Romagna: An olive oil dough for making the traditional, versatile vegetable tart erbazzone, as well as the secrets of making tagliatelle and other pasta doughs, and an irresistible Veal Scaloppine Bolognese
• From Le Marche: Farro with Roasted Pepper Sauce, Lamb Chunks with Olives, and Stuffed Quail in Parchment
• From Umbria: A taste of the sweet Norcino black truffle, and seductive dishes such as Potato-Mushroom Cake with Braised Lentils, Sausages in the Skillet with Grapes, and Chocolate Bread Parfait
• From Abruzzo: Fresh scrippelle (crêpe) ribbons baked with spinach or garnishing a soup, fresh pasta made with a “guitar,” Rabbit with Onions, and Lamb Chops with Olives
• From Molise: Fried Ricotta; homemade cavatelli pasta in a variety of ways; Spaghetti with Calamari, Shrimp, and Scallops; and Braised Octopus
• From Basilicata: Wedding Soup, Fiery Maccheroni, and Farro with Pork Ragù
• From Calabria: Shepherd’s Rigatoni, steamed swordfish, and Almond Biscottini
• From Sardinia: Flatbread Lasagna, two lovely eggplant dishes, and Roast Lobster with Bread Crumb Topping

This is just a sampling of the many delights Lidia has uncovered. The 175 recipes she shares with us in this rich feast of a book represent the work of the local people and friends with whom she made intimate contact—the farmers, shepherds, foragers, and artisans who produce local cheeses, meats, olive oils, and wines. And in addition, her daughter, Tanya, takes us on side trips in each of the twelve regions to share her love of the country and its art.

Excerpt

Frittata with Asparagus and Scallions

 

Ingredients:

 

1 pound fresh, thin asparagus spears

 

4 ounces prosciutto or bacon, thick slices with ample fat (about 4 slices)

 

1/2 pound scallions

 

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

 

1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt, or more to taste

 

8 large eggs

 

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

 

Recommended Equipment:

 

A sturdy 12-inch nonstick skillet with a cover

 

A heat-proof rubber spatula

 

Serves 4 as a light meal or 6 as an appetizer

 

This is a different sort of frittata, not the neat golden round of well-set eggs that's probably most familiar. Here the eggs are in the skillet for barely a minute, just long enough to gather in soft, loose folds, filled with morsels of asparagus and shreds of prosciutto. In fact, when I make this frittata or the "dragged" eggsuova strapazzate, page 143I leave my eggs still wet and glistening so I can mop up the plate with a crust of country bread. That's the best part of all.

 

Snap off the tough bottom stubs of the asparagus, peel the bottom few inches of each spear, and cut them crosswise in 1 1/2-inch pieces. Slice prosciutto or bacon into strips, or lardoons, about 1 inch long and 1/3 inch wide. Trim the scallions, and cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces.

 

Pour the olive oil into the skillet, scatter in the lardoons, and set over medium heat. When the strips are sizzling and rendering fat, toss in the cut asparagus, and roll and toss them over a few times. Cover the skillet, and cook, still over moderate heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until the asparagus is slightly softened, 5 minutes or so.

 

Scatter the scallion pieces in the pan, season with a couple pinches of salt, and toss the vegetables and lardoons together. Cover the skillet, and cook, shaking the pan and stirring occasionally, until the scallions and asparagus are soft and moist, 7 or 8 minutes more. Meanwhile, beat the eggs thoroughly with the remaining salt and generous grinds of black pepper.

 

When the vegetables are steaming in their moisture, uncover the skillet, raise the heat, and cook, tossing, for a minute or so, until the water has evaporated and the asparagus and scallions seem about to color.

 

Quickly spread them out in the pan, and pour the eggs over at once. Immediately begin folding the eggs over with the spatula, clearing the sides and skillet bottom continuously, so the eggs flow and coagulate around the vegetables and lardoons.

 

When all the eggs are cooked in big soft curds—in barely a minute—take the skillet off the heat. Tumble the frittata over a few more times to keep it loose and moist. Spoon portions onto warm plates, and serve hot and steaming.

 

Dry Fettuccine with Squash and Cauliflower
Bavette con Zucca e Cavolo
Serves 6

Ingredients
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 plump garlic cloves, crushed and peeled
1 small onion, thinly sliced (1 cup)
3 cups butternut squash cut in ½-inch cubes
3 cups cauliflower cut in small (about 1-inch) florets
4 tablespoons small capers, drained
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt, or to taste, plus more for cooking pasta
1/2 teaspoon peperoncino flakes, or to taste
2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand
1 pound dry fettucine or bavette
1 cup freshly grated pecorino

Recommended Equipment
A heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan, 14-inch diameter, with a cover
A large pot, 8-quart capacity or larger, with a cover, for cooking the pasta

 
Dry Fettuccine with Squash and Cauliflower
Bavette con Zucca e Cavolo
 


   1. Pour the olive oil into the big skillet, and set over medium-high heat.

   2. Scatter in the sliced garlic, and let it start sizzling.

   3. Stir in the onion slices, and cook for a couple of minutes, to wilt.

   4. Spill in all the cut squash and cauliflower pieces, scatter the capers, salt, and peperoncino on top, and with tongs toss all together for a minute or so.

   5. Pour a cup of water into the skillet, cover tightly, and steam the vegetables for 2 to 3 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally.

   6. Pour in the crushed tomatoes along with a cup of water sloshed in the tomato cans. Stir well and cover; when the tomato juices are boiling, adjust the heat to keep them bubbling gently. Cook covered for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

   7. When the vegetables are softened, uncover and continue cooking to reduce the pan juices to a good consistency for dressing the pasta, about 5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning to taste, and keep at a low simmer.

   8. While the sauce is cooking, heat salted pasta-cooking water to a rolling boil (at least 6 quarts water and a tablespoon salt).

   9. Drop in the fettuccine or bavette, and cook until barely al dente.

   10. Lift them from the water, drain for a moment, then drop into the simmering vegetables. Toss and cook all together for a couple of minutes over moderate heat. Moisten the dish with pasta water if it seems dry; cook rapidly to reduce the juices if they're splashing in the skillet.

   11. When the pasta is perfectly cooked and robed with sauce, turn off the heat. Sprinkle over it the grated cheese, toss into the pasta, and serve.


 

Praise

Praise for Lidia Matticchio Bastianich

"Straightforward, honest, simple but sophisticated, and utterly delicious...these satisfying dishes will never fail to please your family or your friends." —Jacques Pépin 
 
"I have enjoyed the creative and soulful cooking at Felidia for more than three decades. Lidia was the first to really bring us authentic regional Italian food in New York. Her recipes in this book are rustic, delicious, and perfect for the home cook." —Daniel Boulud 
 
"For those who want to craft the kind of delizioso Italian delights one finds at the chef’s flagship New York restaurant, Felidia, [Lidia] Bastianich serves up more than 100 signature recipes she’s spent 38 years perfecting: Istrian-inflected dishes both sophisticated and homespun." —O, The Oprah Magazine 
 
"No one gets to the heart of Italian food like Lidia Bastianich." —Debbie Macomber,#1 New York Times best-selling author 

"One of America’s great Italian cooks." —Los Angeles Times

"Bastianich’s 16th cookbook and arguably one of her most user-friendly, streamlined to be 'as straightforward to cook as possible' and using a minimal number of pots and pans. . . . You’ll find a wide assortment of primi pasta and risotto cishes, which are the cornerstone of Italian cooking and perfectly suited for one-pot cooking: chicken eggplant parmesan, gemelli with pesto and tomato, chicken cacciatore and zucchini bread lasagna, to name a few. . . . Ever the teacher, Bastianich sprinkles tips and tricks throughout, and also offers substitution and serving suggestions." Pittsburgh Post-Gazette